Sunday, March 10, 2013

Bodice fitting and boning

lots of gaping at the top

I'm working on Vogue 8849, making a "wearable muslin."  The goal is to make it eventually out of navy silk for a bridesmaid dress for a wedding in September, so I figured I'd better have a practice run.  I have close to zero experience with bodice fitting, and I definitely have never put in boning. The fitting turned out to be more difficult, and the boning much easier, than I expected.

In the above picture, you can see my ridiculous first attempts at taking out the top gaping in the lefthand side. The stitch line looks like I'm trying to win a prize for freehand quilting.  Not surprisingly, the more I took out the more it gave me that oh-so-desirable "torpedo" look.  After picking out all the stitches and starting again, you can see I had a more subtle and reasonable approach on the righthand side of the picture.

Here's the traced pattern pieces, you can see it actually required very little changing, just those two slices taken out above the bustline on the front princess seam.

The boning was really quite easy to put in: I used the plastic kind that comes in the casing, so you just stitch up the sides. However, I did find that the instructions said to place in "on the side seams" but the picture shows it on the side and front seams, i.e., running up over the bustline.  I didn't think that could be right, so I did just the sides.  I think I may do the fronts too for the final product (please let me know if you have advice about that in the comments!  I especially wonder if I should be using a less-stiff kind of boning for that).  I also think I need to add in some bias-cut seam tape across the top to make sure there's no gaping.  

I catch-stitched bra cups on the inside....the smallest Jo-ann carried, which are still not quite small enough for me, and which Sophie insisted on throwing from the cart at some woman in the store! "No honey, don't throw the boobs at people."  Ah, the indignities of parenthood.

I'm really happy with the fit, and I'd like to point out that I went to heroic lengths to snap this picture for you, as Jon is out of town and I had to pin this up the back myself to make it stay on. :)

1 comment:

  1. amazing Elise! My mom has done boning. I'm going to send her a link to your blog. Maybe she can chime in. I think the fit looks great!